What happens when you go beyond Istanbul, Cappadocia, and Pamukkale — and let Türkiye show you its real face?
When most people think of Türkiye, a predictable slideshow plays in their heads — hot air balloons over Cappadocia, the white travertines of Pamukkale, the Bosphorus Bridge connecting two continents, the Blue Mosque. And that's it. No one talks about what happens when you step outside that slideshow.
During COVID, I started watching Turkish dramas — first Aşk Laftan Anlamaz, then Erkenci Kuş. These weren't just entertainment; they planted a seed. Türkiye had more to offer than what tourists see. After my last trip to Ladakh in July 2022, I spent 14 months planning. Not a typical itinerary — a different kind of trip. Solo. Unplanned. Open to whatever Türkiye wanted to show me.
This is the story of 18 days that changed how I see travel, trust, and myself.
Day 1: The Airport Wait, the Taxi Driver, and the Collapse of Plan A
29 September 2023
My friend Heather and I both had flights that morning. Hers left at 2:30 AM; mine got delayed to 8:10 AM — my first 8-hour airport wait for an international flight. Turkish Airlines was good, and the flight over Iran was surreal. Landing in Istanbul felt like pure exhilaration.
Taxi driver Ramazan gave me grapes and a 1-lira coin. At the scooter rental shop, the total came to ₹90,000 — 70% of my cash. ATM fees were insane. I cancelled and went fully unplanned. A SIM card guy offered me a place to stay, but my vibes were off. I walked 25–35 km and found Otel Gül. Perfect. Day one taught me flexibility and trusting my gut.
Istanbul International Airport at sunrise — the first light of a journey that would test everything
Day 2: First Turkish Breakfast and the Road to Isparta
30 September 2023
First Kahvaltı (Turkish breakfast) — small portion, since I was cautious. Hotel manager Mahmut Tuncer helped arrange a scooter reference in Isparta and a discount. Lunch was tomato soup, rice, bread, white bean gravy, and Çay — simple and perfect. The restaurant family chatted with me about Turkish culture. It was cold, and I had no jacket — just scarves. That evening, I boarded the bus to Isparta.
First Kahvaltı in Türkiye — simple, fresh, and exactly what I needed
Day 3: The Scooter Guy Who "Fell in Love"
1 October 2023
At a bus stop near Boyalı, the conductor flirted shamelessly. His assistant saved me. At Isparta, I walked 10 km to the scooter shop. The owner's son cancelled my rental to spend time with me — second flirtation in two days. He took me to a hotel, upgraded my room, paid for lunch, and said he fell in love. I asked him to leave.
Lesson: Love at first sight is often just attraction. Solo travelers must control emotions and make wise decisions.
The upgraded "view room" at Eğirdir — beauty worth the awkwardness
Day 4: Lost on Mount Sivri and the Police Escort
2 October 2023
A local expert arranged a car to Apıknar base camp. A tractor helped 5 km, then I continued alone. I got lost, shouted in Turkish, and used an offline blog to find my way. At the Prostanna board, fog and wind turned me back. The tractor man said I was on the right path, but it was too dangerous. I couldn't reach the top.
I walked back, capturing bird's-eye views of Lake Eğirdir. Dinner: fish steak and a cat companion. On the 5 km walk back, police stopped me, showed their license, and dropped me at the hotel. The hotel owner took me for coffee, Künefe, and a night view — then approached me too. I replied rudely.
Lesson: Kindness is not an invitation. Sometimes being "rude" is self-preservation.
The fog that turned me back — and the view that made the walk worthwhile
Day 5: The Apology and the Bus to Denizli
3 October 2023
The hotel owner apologized and didn't charge for breakfast. He dropped me at Isparta bus station. I took a bus to Denizli, then realized I'd overshot by 25–35 km. I got down on the highway and walked back. A kind stranger guided me to the station. Transfer to Pamukkale.
Hotel owner Rifat Durmuş was great. Dinner at his brother's Indian restaurant: Chappti and Chole Masala — delicious. His grandfather, Ahmet Durmuş, sold me paragliding over Pamukkale Travertines and Hierapolis. First time ever. Let's see how it goes.
Chappti and Chole Masala in Pamukkale — comfort food after a chaotic day
Day 6: First Paragliding and a Long Nap
4 October 2023
Private transfer to the paragliding point. My driver was an experienced pilot — and he'd be flying with me. Cold weather, shorts, superb view. At the top: nervous but curious. He shot great photos and videos. Good ride.
Met an Indonesian girl. We walked, had pomegranate juice. She left for Denizli; I had Aryan (buttermilk) and lunch. Took a nap that went long — woke at 9:30 PM. Found one restaurant open: Falafel with hummus, fries, and bread. Great dinner. Saw 3 motorbikes at the hotel but it was too late to talk.
First time paragliding over Pamukkale — nervous, curious, and completely worth it
Day 7: Cotton Castle, Hierapolis, and the Overnight Bus to Cappadocia
5 October 2023
Visited Cotton Castle (Travertines) at 9:30 AM — less crowded, cool light, audible water. Then Hierapolis. A guided tour is recommended; if alone, read the boards. Around 1:30 PM, had pomegranate juice and ice cream, then lunch — and parceled dinner.
Back at the hotel, packed. Last coffee with receptionist Fezyan. Photo with Ahmet. Then the overnight bus to Cappadocia began.
Cotton Castle at 9:30 AM — fewer crowds, cooler light, audible water flow
Day 8: The Bus Accident and the Best View of Göreme
6 October 2023
Bus stopped at Konya at 12:40 AM. Around 4:10 AM, a car hit the bus exactly where I was sitting, near Uçhisar otobüs park. The bus was safe; the car was badly hit. Arrived in Göreme at 4:50 AM.
I walked 5 km alone in the dark, watching hot air balloon vehicles prepare. At one store, I had a 2-hour stop — washroom, tea, and the best view of Göreme, completely unplanned. The security man was kind. It was only me, my luggage, and the balloons. ❤️
The 5 km took 3–4 hours with my 20 kg backpack. Got my room at 11:30 AM. Orchid Room for 2 nights, Cave Room for the last. Relaxed, washed clothes, ordered Indian dinner.
The unplanned 2-hour stop that gave me the best view of Göreme — before sunrise, before the crowds
Day 9: Scooter Rental, Devrent Valley, and a Gift from Mustafa
7 October 2023
Scooter confirmed for 2 days in Uçhisar. Owner Mr. Mustafa was scared to rent to me until I showed him videos of riding in Sikkim. Started on the left side, corrected after 1 km.
Visited Devrent Valley (Imagination Valley) — camel-shaped rocks. Then Aşk Vadisi (Love Valley) and Sword Valley. Back at Mustafa's office, I sold his packages to tourists. 😊 He gave me a hot air balloon magnet as a gift. Dinner: Pukka Indian Restaurant — Jeera rice, dal takda, chilli pickle.
Devrent Valley — the camel-shaped rock and my first solo scooter ride in Cappadocia
Day 10: Derinkuyu, Ihlara Valley, and the Police Check
8 October 2023
Dropped luggage at the Cave Room (Tulip Room) and left for the Green Valley Tour. Couldn't find my scooter key — Mustafa said use the original. Highways empty. Speed: 85–95 km/h.
Reached Derinkuyu Underground City — 18 levels, biggest in Cappadocia. Mustafa texted: key found. Relaxed. Rode to Ihlara Valley, met a local couple, explored together. Rode back at 90–95 km/h. Police stopped me 25 km away — license check, drunk test. They were confused by my Indian license until I showed the rental receipt.
Reached Mustafa's shop at 9:45 PM. He treated me to Manti. For him, I was the craziest girl. 🤩
Derinkuyu Underground City — 18 levels deep, the biggest in Cappadocia
Day 11: Uçhisar Castle, Pigeon Valley, and the Bus to Istanbul
9 October 2023
Relaxing day. Last breakfast in Cappadocia. Mustafa gave me a scooter for free. Visited Uçhisar Castle — amazing. Then Pigeon Valley — too long, decided not to go. Rode highways to refill Mustafa's fuel tank instead of paying rental.
Early dinner with a cat companion. Mustafa arranged a private cab to Göreme bus station. Bought a ticket to Alibeyköy, Istanbul. Leaving Cappadocia with happiness and excitement to meet someone. 🤩
Uçhisar Castle — the highest point in Cappadocia, and the view that made the climb worth it
Day 12: The 15 km Walk and a Long-Awaited Meeting
10 October 2023
Walked ~15 km with a 20 kg backpack from Alibeyköy to Fatih, Istanbul. Exhausted but motivated. Saw Galata Bridge — men fishing. Had roasted chestnut (Kestane Kebab). Crossed Grand Bazaar. Finally reached the hotel.
Checked in, washed clothes, took a bath. Late evening: met my friend. Dinner at Bombay Masala.
Galata Bridge at sunset — fishermen, chestnuts, and the end of a 15 km walk
Day 13: A Quiet Istanbul Day
11 October 2023
Planning day. My friend had a meeting; we chatted briefly at the hotel. In the evening, I walked alone around Galata Bridge, had dinner, and took photos of the Istanbul evening view. Istanbul at night is as silent and beautiful as it is loud in the day.
Istanbul at night — silent and beautiful, a different city after dark
Day 14: New Mosque, Egyptian Bazaar, and Fish Dinner
12 October 2023
Changed hotels. My friend bought lunch. Evening: Galata Bridge, New Mosque, Egyptian Bazaar. Fish dinner. Walked back. Short, relaxed day.
Egyptian Bazaar — spices, colors, and the chaos of Istanbul's markets
Day 15: Vehicle Breakdown and Camping by the Sea
13 October 2023
Started our trip together. After 20 km, vehicle issue. Pushed it 10–15 km to a mechanic. Found a bakery with fresh pita bread. After repairs, rode on. Found a campsite near the sea. Beautiful view. Prepared our tent, had a local drink with snacks.
Camping near the Sea of Marmara — the unplanned stop that became a highlight
Day 16: Sea of Marmara and Sunset with Windmills
14 October 2023
Relaxed morning near the Sea of Marmara. Cold wind, heavy waves. Found a flight-theme restaurant for early lunch. Rode toward Çanakkale for the Troy Museum. Stayed near Kepez. Sunset was breathtaking — with windmills. Spacious hotel: 2 rooms, 3 beds. Dinner: pita bread with blueberry pastry.
Sunset on the ride to Kepez — windmills, open roads, and the best of Türkiye's countryside
Day 17: Troy Museum and the Ride Back to Istanbul
15 October 2023
Morning breakfast, then Troy Museum and the statue. Fascinating history, crazy souvenirs. Rode back to Istanbul. Lunch at N°42 restaurant. I felt sleepy and fell on my partner's shoulder while riding. Last dinner in Türkiye together. 😍 Sunset ride: bridge view of Malkara–Çanakkale Otoyolu. 😍🤩
Troy Museum — where history, art, and souvenir culture collide
Day 18: Grand Bazaar, Duty-Free Chocolates, and the Farewell
16 October 2023
Skipped breakfast after a 3-hour conversation. Reached Grand Bazaar at noon. Shopped until 3:35 PM. Back at the hotel by 4:00 PM. Packed in 1 hour. Left at 5:45 PM. Reached the airport at 7:05 PM — just 20 minutes before the counter closed. Luckily, no queue. Immigration in 15 minutes. Bought duty-free chocolates. 😋
Boarded. Sad to leave. Türkiye gave me kindness, adventure, frustration, beauty, and connection. Arrived in Mumbai early morning with 30 kg luggage and a heart full of memories.
Leaving Istanbul — with 30 kg of luggage, chocolates, and a heart full of memories
What I Learned: Türkiye – A City That Lies on Two Continents
The highlights are just the beginning. The real Türkiye is in the bus stations at 5 AM, the mountain trails where you get lost, the small restaurants where families talk to you about culture, the taxi drivers who give you grapes.
Solo female travel in Türkiye is a reality check. Flirting is frequent. Kindness can be misinterpreted. Set hard boundaries early. Trust your gut. And the police are helpful — they dropped me at my hotel when I was walking alone at night.
Unplanned is often better. Cancelling my scooter rental on Day 1 forced me into an unplanned trip — which led to Otel Gül, Mahmut Tuncer, the homemade restaurant, and the best moments.
Budget reality matters. ATM fees are high — carry enough cash. Local restaurants are affordable and delicious. Buses are cheap and reliable, and overnight buses save on accommodation.
The emotional rollercoaster was real. Excitement, anxiety, frustration, fear, wonder, gratitude, thrill, freedom, sadness, longing. Solo travel isn't just about seeing places. It's about feeling them — all of it.
Final Thoughts: Would I Go Back?
Yes. In a heartbeat. Türkiye gave me everything: kindness, adventure, frustration, beauty, loneliness, connection. It tested me. It surprised me. It changed me.
If you're planning a trip to Türkiye, don't just do the highlights. Go beyond. Get lost. Talk to strangers. Ride the bus. Walk the extra mile. Trust your gut. Set boundaries. And always, always carry a scarf.
Türkiye, I'll be back. Teşekkürler for everything. ❤️
