16 days. One country. And a journey that was nothing like the brochures promised.
Egypt is more than mummies, pyramids, and Cairo. It's a country where the vibe changes from city to city—Alexandria's Mediterranean charm feels nothing like Aswan's Nubian warmth. Luxor's ancient stillness contrasts with Hurghada's electric energy.
This is my day-by-day account of 16 days in Egypt—from the border crossing at Nuweiba to the last night near Cairo Airport. Not a guidebook. Just what actually happened—the good, the uncomfortable, the beautiful, and the moments that made me stop and think, "What could possibly top this?"
Nothing did. And everything did.
Day 1: The Border Crossing — Nuweiba to Cairo
The midnight ferry across the Gulf of Aqaba—nervous, missing someone, and unsure of what Egypt would bring.
The journey began on a midnight ferry across the Gulf of Aqaba. I was nervous, missing someone, surrounded by families celebrating Ramadan.
By 02:30, I arrived at Nuweiba. Immigration was uncomfortable—an officer escorted me too closely, flirted, tested my boundaries. I kept my distance. I said no.
The road from Nuweiba to Cairo is pure desert. I shared the ride with a German boy from the ship. We pretended to be siblings to avoid unwanted attention. It worked. We passed the Suez Canal at 12:45—far in the distance, but we zoomed our cameras and captured it.
Mona's Note: If crossing from Jordan via Nuweiba, budget USD 100 for the transfer to Cairo. Solo female travelers: find a travel companion for the ride—not for safety, but for peace of mind.
Day 2: First Impressions of Luxor
Luxor's first impression—horse carriages, doorless vans, and the feeling of stepping back in time.
At 08:00, I arrived at Luxor GoBus station. My first impression? Blank. Horse carriages sharing the road with vans that had no doors—like stepping back into an earlier century.
I walked 3 km to my hotel with my trolley luggage. Every few steps, someone called out, "Madam, where you want to go? Cheap price!" My answer was either "No" or silence.
At 10:25, I got my room key. The view from the 5th floor was amazing.
I met the Filipino family at 13:00 for lunch. The guide with them was naughty—kept trying to approach me. I informed Tess, who told her husband Steve. They came up to the terrace to stay with me so the guide would keep his distance.
Mona's Note: Luxor is walkable if you're near the corniche. But be prepared for constant offers from drivers and guides. A firm "No" works better than negotiation.
Day 3: Valley of the Kings and the Wind
The Valley of the Kings—where pharaohs were buried and hot air balloons now float at dawn.
No breakfast again. My only plan was the Valley of the Kings and Queens. I arrived at 14:15 and met Ali—a local guide. I asked him to show me the places that were truly great and worth understanding.
The winds were incredibly strong. My clothes were flying everywhere. I was wearing a slit skirt during Ramadan—yes, I was the attention-seeking lady in the crowd.
Inside each tomb, local Egyptians act like guides. They take your phone, snap photos, then ask for a tip. I said, "No! Did I ask you for help? Then why should I give you a tip?"
At 17:25, I took a surprise sunset ferry ride on the Nile to my hotel pier. Not planned—but absolutely amazing.
Mona's Note: The Valley of the Kings is worth every minute. Go early. During Ramadan, expect shorter hours and more crowds.
Day 4: Luxor Temple, Deir el-Medina, and Local Kindness
Luxor Temple—where I dressed amazingly and found local guides who became friends.
Balloons floating in the air—a surprising sight from my room at 06:05.
I decided not to go with Ali—wasn't convinced about the price. Instead, I walked 5 km to Luxor Temple alone.
I dressed amazingly today—yes, I may look fat, but I still look amazing. So I thought, the local men who act as guides will take my photos and videos. If they do a good job, I'll tip them.
By the end of my visit, Ali came all the way to Luxor Temple parking. He offered: today, he would take me to the places I asked for without charging anything. At the end, if I wished to pay a tip, I could.
He bought me sugarcane juice at 12:45. We visited the Colossi of Memnon, then Deir el-Medina at 13:25—where workers' tombs are preserved. Indian tourists don't visit here—mostly European and American. The paintings looked fresh.
Mona's Note: Deir el-Medina is a hidden gem. Well-preserved tomb paintings without the crowds.
Day 5: The Long Road to Aswan — Edfu, Kom Ombo, and Philae
Edfu Temple—where a local guide brought the walls to life with stories of Horus and Isis.
It's a long day today. I got delayed by 30 minutes and started at 06:10.
At 08:25, I arrived in the Edfu region. Edfu Temple is one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt—the Temple of Horus. At 08:50, I found a local guide, and he did an amazing job—walking me through the massive pylons, courtyards, and inner sanctuaries.
Kom Ombo Temple (Missed)
A heated conversation with the driver meant Kom Ombo Temple was missed and skipped. The next stop, the High Dam, was canceled too.
Unfinished Obelisk (12:40 - 13:20)
An ancient granite quarry where a massive obelisk was being carved directly from bedrock. If completed, it would have been the largest obelisk ever erected in Egypt—42 meters tall. But it cracked during construction, and the workers abandoned it.
Philae Temple (13:45 - 15:30)
Dedicated to Isis, Osiris, and Horus. The temple has now been moved to Agilika Island because the original location was flooded by the Aswan Dam.
Mona's Note: If hiring a driver for a long day trip, confirm the itinerary in writing. My driver changed plans mid-route, and I missed Kom Ombo and the High Dam.
Day 6: Dendera Temple and the Sound of Karnak
Dendera Temple—where the ceiling is the masterpiece, and the colors have survived for thousands of years.
A relaxed morning. Only two places on my list—Dendera Temple, dedicated to goddess Hathor, and Karnak Temple for the sound and light show.
At 13:25, I was in Al Taramsah, Qena, where Dendera Temple is located. A security policeman followed us throughout. When we came out, I took his photo—just in case. After seeing my look, he backed off.
Dendera is beautiful. Everything is carved straight up to the ceiling. You have to look up constantly. The colors are stunning—vivid blues, greens, and golds that have survived for thousands of years. Indian tourists usually skip it. Their loss.
Karnak Sound and Light Show (20:20 - 21:00)
I joined the show midway through. Ali helped me understand what was being said. The sound and light show at Karnak is dramatic—voices echo through the ancient columns, telling stories of pharaohs and gods.
Mona's Note: Dendera is worth the detour. The ceiling alone is worth the trip.
Day 7: The Road to Hurghada
The desert highway to Hurghada—nothing but sand, sky, and the promise of the Red Sea ahead.
Before leaving for Hurghada, I had my last meal at Pyramisa Isis Hotel.
After check-out, I had cannelloni for brunch. At 13:45, I walked 3 km to the bus station. By 14:30, the bus left for Hurghada.
At 19:00, I reached Hurghada bus stop. The hotel was 5 km away. I thought I would take a taxi—but then it turned into me walking the whole path with my trolley luggage. Again.
The vibe here was not so great. Men were following me. So I kept rerouting my path—which alley to take, which road to follow—it kept changing continuously.
At 20:30, I finally arrived at the hotel.
Mona's Note: Hurghada's bus station is not close to the main hotel area. If you arrive late, book a taxi.
Day 8: Horse Riding by the Red Sea
Horse riding on the Red Sea—slow, steady, and exactly what I needed.
At 11:30, I booked two tours for the afternoon: horse riding on the Red Sea beach.
I hadn't bought a swimsuit. So I created one with my night suit shorts, a t-shirt, and a scarf from Luxor. A DIY swimsuit. Not bad!
At 15:45, I was at the stable. My horse's name was Sara, her caretaker was Mustafa. Riding felt like leg exercises—constant tension in the thighs. Haha!
At 17:00, we went into the sea. One side of me wanted to go deep inside. The other side said, "No, Mona, no. If Sara goes out of control, it will be a new adventure task for you."
Mona's Note: If you're a beginner rider, don't let guides push you into fast riding. Slow and steady is fine—and safer.
Day 9: The Island Day Trip and the Mystery of the Red Sea
Snorkeling in the Red Sea—my first time, and I was the first girl to jump in.
The island day trip. Around 09:20, our boat left the port.
At 09:30, we saw two dolphins! The view of the Red Sea was complete shades of blue—and my curiosity increased. Why is this called the Red Sea when it's so blue?
At 10:45, we stopped for snorkeling. I wasn't going to go, but that lady with her mother and grandmother said, "Go, otherwise you will regret it." I said, "I don't know how to swim." She said, "No worry, they will be with you."
I went. I was the first girl to jump in the water. I kept my towel and scarf down and decided to go with a t-shirt and shorts—not with bikini only.
After lunch, I asked the main in-charge, "Why is it called the Red Sea when it's shades of blue?" He explained: The sea is surrounded by red desert, and when the sun rises or sets, that light reflects in the water and turns the sea red. Also, there is a fish who gives eggs in red color—again, that reflection gives the sea a red color.
Mona's Note: If you're not a confident swimmer, tell the crew. They will stay with you. And don't skip the snorkeling—the coral reefs are different at every stop.
Day 10: Return to Cairo — A Day of Rest
Breakfast at Ramses Hilton—two flavors of halva tahini, and a video call with family.
At 01:45 on 15 March, I arrived in New Cairo City.
At 03:00, I checked into the room. On the TV screen, my name was displayed—a welcome message. I ate 4 cookies and went to sleep.
At 09:50, I went for breakfast. Two flavors of halva tahini. Oh my god, it was delicious! I ate slowly, having a video call with my brother and mother.
At 21:20, I went down to Citadel Restaurant, where I had my first meal on 6 March. Fish soup and wild mushroom risotto. Delicious.
Mona's Note: Sometimes the best travel days are the ones where you do nothing. Rest is part of the journey.
Day 11: Fayoum Oasis and the Road Not Taken
Wadi El Rayan waterfalls—two lakes, barely any tourists, and a moment of pure peace.
At 09:40, I left for Fayoum Oasis and the White Desert.
By 11:55, I entered Wadi El Rayan Protected Area. Around 12:50, we continued to Wadi El Rayan Waterfalls. It was beautiful—two lakes, upper and lower. Barely any tourists here.
At 14:10, the driver said he didn't have sufficient fuel. So the visit to the White Desert and Black Desert was canceled. He was sorry, but nothing could be done.
Mona's Note: If hiring a driver for Fayoum, confirm the fuel situation and full itinerary before leaving. I missed the White Desert because my driver wasn't prepared.
Day 12: A Quiet Day with Loud Thoughts
Sufi dervishes at the hotel—a few minutes of spinning that felt like a small gift.
At 10:15, I went for breakfast. My mood got a bit upset—some conversations just leave you feeling heavy.
So I went back to the hotel room and booked another room for 3 nights. I washed my clothes and did some data transferring.
At 21:00, I came down to Citadel Restaurant for a light dinner. Fish soup and tiramisu. Exactly what I needed.
While heading back, I saw a Sufi dervishes dance performance. I stopped and watched. The spinning, the music, the devotion—it was mesmerizing.
Mona's Note: Some days are for exploring. Some days are for sitting with yourself. Today was the latter.
Day 13: A Dash to Alexandria and the Mediterranean Sea
Bibliotheca Alexandrina—where the Mediterranean Sea carries thoughts of someone unsaid.
At 14:45, I booked the bus to Alexandria—leaving around 16:00 and arriving around 17:45.
At 17:45, I reached Alexandria. The sun was setting, and I was watching through the bus window.
But until I got the taxi, it was dark, and the sun had set completely. I wanted to see the Mediterranean Sea—I traveled to this city specifically to see it and the sunset. But nothing was going as planned.
Somehow, I decided to stop at Bibliotheca Alexandrina to see the Mediterranean Sea. This sea has some thoughts that relate to someone—and those heavy feelings which remain unsaid to that person.
Mona's Note: Alexandria is worth the day trip from Cairo. But plan your timing better than I did—the sunset is the whole point.
Day 14: The Pyramids of Giza and a Heavy Heart
The Great Sphinx and the pyramids—where I stood in awe, and then stood my ground.
At 10:10, I went down for breakfast. Until the lift arrived, I took a video of the 28th floor. My room was 2821. I asked myself—which floor is my home? Is it lower than 28, or is it 28?
Outside the hotel, I got a taxi for the Pyramids at 13:05. By 13:25, I arrived.
I bought the entrance ticket with a small pyramid inside ticket. He came inside with me, took good photos, then took a photo of me on a camel. Initially, I thought I was going on a camel—and it was like, "Oops!" First time, and that too in a slit skirt dress.
At 14:30, I went inside the small pyramid—the Pyramid of Menkaure. It was okay, but for me, Luxor has more warmth and beauty than the Pyramids of Giza.
At 15:30, he asked for a tip. I said, "Sorry, I don't give you because you haven't done a good job in photos or videos, nor any stories for the pyramids." I left him without a tip. In return, he said something bad, but never mind—that's part of travel.
Mona's Note: The pyramids are iconic, but Luxor has my heart. If you have limited time, choose Luxor.
Day 15: Saqqara, the Serapeum, and the Last Night
The Step Pyramid of Djoser—the first pyramid ever built, watching over the most famous ones.
At 09:30, I had my last breakfast at the hotel, and by 10:00, I left for Saqqara.
Before arriving, the driver took me to an oriental carpet school. I bought three carpets.
Saqqara (11:50 - 13:35)
Saqqara is a vast necropolis that served as the burial ground for Memphis, the ancient capital. The Step Pyramid of Djoser is the centerpiece. Built around 2650 BC by the architect Imhotep, it is considered the earliest large-scale cut-stone construction in history.
Unlike the pyramids of Giza, which are smooth and massive, the Step Pyramid looks like a staircase to the sky—six tiers stacked on top of each other. And from the panorama view at Saqqara, I could see the Giza pyramids far in the distance, a faint outline on the northern horizon. It felt like looking at the future from the past—the first pyramid watching over the most famous ones.
The Serapeum (12:15 - 14:30)
An underground labyrinth of tunnels where the sacred Apis bulls were buried in massive stone sarcophagi. Some weigh over 70 tons. The scale and precision are staggering.
Here, the security guard followed me in a way that felt like he was "guiding" me—but then he wanted to touch. It was pitch dark, and I kept a 5-foot distance. While exiting, he asked for a tip. I said, "Why? For what?" He said, "I guided you." I said, "I never asked you to." He said something bad. But never mind—I am used to this now.
The Grand Egyptian Museum (15:20 - 18:10)
The GEM is only worth visiting if you are not visiting any temples in Luxor, Cairo, or Abu Simbel. If you have already visited many temples, only the Tutankhamun galleries, the Khufu boat museum, and the in-house store are worth it.
The Airbnb
I left GEM at 18:10 and went to eat a local burger at 19:20 in Giza. Then we drove to my Airbnb stay next to Cairo Airport and reached at 20:15.
The Airbnb host was staying in the same apartment. His wife was from the UK, her husband from Egypt. It was a pretty okay location at a very budgeted price. Since it was Ramadan Eid celebration, the price of Hilton Ramses was high. So instead of paying Rs 11,000 per night, I stayed at Rs 2,000 per night near the airport.
Mona's Note: If you're visiting Saqqara, don't skip the Serapeum. The underground tunnels and 70-ton sarcophagi are unlike anything else in Egypt.
Day 16: The Last Morning, the Flight Home, and Forgetting My Own Floor
The Eid moon from the plane window—sent to Guide Ali and my parents before takeoff.
I woke up around 08:00 and started packing. The luggage wasn't fitting—I needed one more trolley bag, but it was Eid, so shops were closed.
While walking outside, a couple of men followed me from a distance. I wrapped my scarf over my shorts to cover my legs—no skin visible—and still they followed. At 12:00, I bought a cold meal and went back to the Airbnb.
At 12:15, I ate bread with ketchup and cheese while planning the packing. I unpacked every chocolate and cookie, then layered the carpets carefully to save space and protect delicate items.
By 15:15, I was ready. I booked a taxi at 15:30 and reached the airport at 15:50.
I was sent to an immigration officer—no proper sign, just guesswork. He stamped me out. I asked why the extra step. He said, "Since your entry was from Sinai Governorate and you hold an Indian passport, the exit process is different."
The flight took off at 18:35—too late to see the pyramids or the Nile from above. But before takeoff, I saw the Eid moon and sent it to Guide Ali and my parents.
On 22 March at 02:55, we were over Mumbai. At 03:15, we landed. By 03:30, immigration was done. I took a photo with all my luggage and bought whiskey from duty-free for my brother's friends.
I reached home around 05:45. And while standing in the lift, I forgot which floor my home was on. I pressed 20. After a minute, I realized—it's the 21st floor. Haha!
Mona's Note: The last day is always the hardest. But forgetting your own floor? That's when you know the journey changed you.
And that's how I completed my Egypt trip—with memories of war, uncertainty, lots of men flirting, and never knowing what the next question in front of me would be.
Egypt is not an easy country. It tests you. It pushes you. It makes you question your boundaries, your patience, and your sense of direction—literally and metaphorically.
But it also gives you moments of pure magic. The Nile at sunset. The Step Pyramid watching over Giza. The three ladies who pushed me to snorkel. The Filipino family who protected me. The Sufi dervishes spinning in the lobby. The Eid moon from the plane window.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat.
